In Which I Climb a Volcano (with some help)

June 15, 2021

I was awakened this morning by a BOOM from Volcan Fuego.

I got up and got dressed and called an Uber so I could get to Cerro de la Cruz early before the crowds and clouds that cover everything. Turns out my driver took me PAST it to Plaza Santiago, which is further up. A decent view, but not as wide open as Cerro--too many trees. I kept looking for the cross that marks Cerro, but finally realized what had happened. The strange thing: a bunch of stray dogs hanging out up there kept following and barking at me as though they were the guardians of the place!

I didn't want to walk all the way down, so I just Ubered to Los Tres Tiempos for breakfast. I was also able to get great shots of the Santa Catalina Arch with Volcan Agua in the background (in 1541 it erupted...water, and flooded the town that was the capital before Antigua which is why it is called Volcan Agua). Breakfast was delicious--OJ, eggs, sausage, plantain, black beans, queso...and then they brought me avena--which, as it turns out, is a warm oatmeal shake--just because :-) Finally noticed all the restaurants I've been to auto add a 10% tip. Ate my food sitting in the courtyard we visited on the tour yesterday.

I got some groceries and a washcloth (why do Airbnbs never have washcloths?) headed back to the Airbnb since my Pacaya tour didn't start until 1, and played with Charlie. Met with Candy again and a driver who took me to Parque Central. Candy handed me 50Q and said it was for my ticket. Now I'm getting confused. Is she not coming with me? Another van picks me up with someone in it...we are transferred to yet ANOTHER van...and I slowly realize no one is speaking English. When we got to the base of Pacaya, the tour guide who met us there spoke only Spanish. HUH???

Parque Central

this is where I was trying to go...

waiting here for my Uber

We start our climb by being surrounded by little kids hawking rentable walking sticks for 10Q or horseback rides up the volcano. I'm determined to at least try to walk it, so I rent the stick and we head up. I think we got only slightly onto the trail when I realized I wasn't gonna make it. The tour guide asked if I wanted a horse. Hell yes, I want a horse. The boy with the horse introduces himself, Henry, and the horse, Caramello. It was fun being on a horse again, but not much padding, so my coccyx bone was getting beat up.

it is behind the clouds

where the trail begins

Caramello!

now you can actually see it (and the steam)

this is as far as horses can go

It starts to rain. Sprinkling at first...then harder. Henry is pointing out things as we go--you can see Guatemala City at one point--despite the fact he doesn't speak much English...but he does know a lot for a 15 y/o. You can't see a whole lot, thanks to the clouds. We make it to a stopping point that has a small shack...we all climb inside to wait out the now heavier rain. Turns out this is as far as the horses can go, so it is on foot the rest of the way.

I'm dying...but I make it to the final stopping point. A lot of ash, which is why horses can't come...but there are lots of doggies hanging out. Then we get to the volcanic rocks, and you can see steam rising from them, and the summit of Pacaya in front of us. We start walking out onto the rocks and find a good spot to roast marshmallows in one of the openings in the rocks. The doggies wait for theirs. Once again, I have done something that almost killed me, but grateful that I made it and got to have the experience.

we were out there!

heading back down a bit more clear

On the way down, Henry sings. We talk a bit more about his family--7 brothers and 1 sister. I give him extra money (the horse cost 100Q up and 100Q down), and then sit waiting for the rest of the group to make it down to go home.

Henry and Caramello

We got back into Antigua and the driver drops me off at Parque Central where I started...right in front of Cafe Condesa, so I grab a grilled cheese and call my Uber to go back to the Airbnb. I eat my sandwich with Charlie by my side.