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A day in colorful Getsemani

  • jill
  • Nov 14, 2019
  • 3 min read

Updated: Jan 18, 2020


Today, Omaira made me arepas with cheese, a fried egg, and fresh papaya. Yum.

So. I mentioned Ricki, the taxi driver I had the first full day I spent in Cartagena. He gave me his Whatsapp so I could let him know when I needed rides. He started texting me almost immediately, which was weird, but I didn't want to be judgy since this is a different culture.

But as you can see, it started to get weird. When I rode with him a second and third time, it was odd. Not scary odd, but just weird. Because I had hugged him the first day, he wanted hugs every time. And then when I needed a ride to the airport on my final day, he didn't respond--overslept.

At any rate, today I tried to have him pick me up, but he didn't respond right away, so I got a ride with someone else outside my building. He was an older guy, and kept pulling over and telling me to take pictures--even though I didn't ask him to, lol. The people here are very proud of their city. When we arrived in the Old City, he told me "God bless you." I'm sure that some people I've met so far were trying to take advantage of tourists, but they are so nice about it and the prices are so cheap, it is hard to feel taken advantage of.

I decide that after my Getsemani tour today, I'm going to head back to my room early and take it easy so I don't get worn out too early into my trip. I'm back at the Camellon de los Mairtres (Plaza of Martyrs) again under blue skies after yesterday's clouds...so it is even more hot today! The bracelet I got from Victor yesterday is made of tiger stone and he said it would bring me energy and power. Let's hope so.

Both tour guides from yesterday recognized me and said hello...then we (only 4 of us today) headed out on our tour of Getsemani. The neighborhood (like others in Cartagena like San Diego, Manga, etc) used to be an island with water/swamp around it. It also happens to be where the independence movement began, and also where all eleven leaders of the independence movement were killed--in the Camellon de los Mairtres. The neighborhood is sweet, small, and very colorful...and the street art here is incredible. One of the folks last night was talking about how just a few years ago you couldn't walk around in Getsemani safely.

In addition to seeing some of the cool areas and cool art (which is all sanctioned by the city), we also tried a drink called refajo--a combination of Kola Roman soda (a bright red, very sweet soda created here) and beer. It was delicious. Also, as we were walking down the street where Cafe del Mural is, an older gentleman was yelling at everyone who passed by "The sea! Our strength! Our strength comes from the sea!" He was there last night too :-)

At the end of the tour, we were on another rampart of the city wall, and you can see a small mountain in the distance, and on top of that is the massive Castillo de San Felipe (King Philip IV of Spain)--the oldest fortress in the Americas, built in 1536 and expanded in 1657 and again through 1767. I decide to head that way and try and find some food while I'm at it.

I begin walking in that direction along the wall, and finally arrive at the base of the fortress. Thankfully, there are more ramps than stairs to get to the top. I buy the audio guide, which turns out to be pretty useless, but entertaining. My Getsemani tour guide mentioned that it was easy to get lost wandering around here, and she wasn't kidding. There are all these tunnels (they were built to help them escape if the English started to attack) and I can see how it would be easy to lose your place.

One of the cooler stories I learn here is about the Commander of the Battle of Cartagena in 1741--Blas de Lazo. A Spanish officer with 1 eye, 1 leg and 1 arm--all lost during previous battles--who led them to victory. His statue features his missing appendages :-)

Finally, I find a place for some lunch--Anafecha Restaurante about a block from my room--and have some spaghetti bolognese and fried yuca--both delicious.

MORE IMPRESSIONS:

  • Surprised that I STILL have not seen a McDonald's

  • They LOVE their oil and sugar (as most tour guides have also mentioned) here, but thankfully, when you get tired of everything fried, they also LOVE Italian food

  • I'm starting to get a feel for things here...caught my own cab for the first time with no help, lol

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