Crazy from the Heat
- jill
- Feb 21, 2019
- 5 min read
Updated: Dec 13, 2020
(click on photos to enlarge and see comments)
Woke up very cold again...but this time, the place I was staying had an extra comforter, so it was better than the night before. Got up early, took a cold shower (no hot water here), packed my bags, and headed to the cafe for breakfast. The cutest little boy was back (I believe he was the son of the woman who made all our food--he loved making faces at us when we made them at him), as were the 2 drunk guys from the night before...STILL pushing the rice whiskey on us!
Breakfast started with some really good tea made from what looked like shriveled purple flowers. Once everyone got there, they served us a chicken/rice porridge, mangosteen (which apparently, has certain medicinal properties, and was Queen Victoria's favorite fruit. You have to find the soft spot on the hard outer rind, push in, and then peel back the rind to find the soft, white fruit inside--sort of looks like garlic cloves--really delicious), tiny oranges and passionfruit. This time, they were uglier looking, but sweeter--apparently, the longer they ripen, the sweeter they get.
After breakfast, it was back into the songthaew to go to the start of the hiking trail to get to the waterfall.
And then, the nightmare began.
When we got to the start of the trail (which was a long way down a steep hill), THAT'S when Gulu told us it would take an hour and a half to get to the waterfall (figuring on 15-20 min per mile, that's at least 5 miles in!). I'm already tired thinking about it. Lots of climbing up and down hills, crossing creeks on fallen trees, mud, and climbing over fallen trees. I do not exercise, so this was TORTURE for me. I was ready to sit and let everyone else to continue on without me about half way in!
The description of the hike said something innocuous like "take a hike through lush jungle to a hidden waterfall." That's it. Nothing like "take a hike on a hot day that is not for amateurs, and you will not have enough water in that tiny bottle to make it" which is what the description should have said.
After an hour and a half, we got to the base of the waterfall--you couldn't really see it yet--that required more climbing. We stopped at the base of a giant rock that turns out to be hiding a tiny grotto with a smaller waterfall. It was nice and cool there. Gulu began unpacking the food and cutting makeshift chopsticks with her knife out of bamboo. I could barely move. I was proud of myself, though...I never once complained or said anything. After the halfway point I started using a walking stick, which helped a bit, especially with the climbing.
Lunch was rice (of course) along with various meat spreads and crunchy bits of meat, and some tiny oranges and some type of apple that I'd never seen before, but which was very delicious (much juicier than regular apples). After we ate, Gulu convinced me to climb up to the waterfall even though I didn't want to...she came with me and kept talking to distract me. We made it to the top and I was actually grateful to her for making me go. It was beautiful. And I had the chance to talk a bit with Gulu who hopes to one day open a shop with her sister, which is why she is going to study business in Switzerland.
It was finally time to head back...and I was feeling a lot more normal and ready. At first, it wasn't too bad--most of it was downhill and seemed to go more quickly....until we got to the last half hour or so which was all uphill. I kept having to stop to rest...to breathe. Some of the others took my bag for me to make my load lighter (not that I was carrying anything heavy). Gulu, thank goodness, stayed with me, and kept talking to me and fanning me. Honestly...I didn't think I'd make it. Seeing everyone at the top of that hill all waiting for me made me feel really self-conscious...but they were so nice about it. They all applauded when I finally made it out.
On the way back, the driver let me ride in the front of the truck where there was A/C. I was so grateful. We decided to stop at a temple on the way back where we had seen a GIANT buddha statue in the mountains on the drive up the mountain (Wat Prathat Doi Kham). Apparently, there were a WHOLE lot of steps to get to it, so I decided to wait in the truck. Two other girls (who, unlike me, complained most of the time we were hiking--but at least they made it out, unlike me, without help) also stayed behind. By the time they made it back down, I was feeling mostly normal again.
At that point, we went back to the cafe to get our bags, and we were off to Chai Lai Orchid to say goodbye to the elephants and then head to Chiang Mai. While we were waiting for our transport from there, I walked over to see the elephants again. It made me VERY sad. I kept welling up. When I saw Seavoy...I am positive she recognized me...and she waved her trunk at me. It was like she knew I was leaving her. Saying goodbye to Gulu was also hard. She taught me so much.
It was about a 45 minute ride from there to the Old City. Luckily for me, I was dropped off first (and I was actually a bit sad to say goodbye to everyone--but more than a little embarrassed, frankly). It took some doing to find my airBNB, but thanks to some help from a tiny old woman, I finally found it. It is a really nice place, and the owner, Lili, was very kind. I had my own balcony that looked out at Doi Suthep (a mountain I'll be visiting while I'm here) when not covered with smoke. I also had my own bathroom and shower with hot water (finally). The place doesn't have A/C, but my room did. Lili told me I could take my dirty clothes to the laundry next door, where a nice woman said she'd have them washed, dryed and folded by the same time next day for about $4. When I asked her if she needed my name or anything, she said "no...I will remember you." LOL.
After dropping that off, I went to get a massage, because boy, did I need one. I went to one nearby called Chinola massage, and it wound up being my favorite of the whole trip. They gave me cool ginger tea and a cool towel when I arrived as I was looking at the price list. I went with a 2 hour package--1 hour foot massage, and 1 hour aromatherapy. It was quite possibly the best massage I have ever had (or just felt that way after the day I had). Afterward, they gave me some hot tea and cookies. The whole thing plus tip cost less than a massage in the states.
After that, I headed to find some food--a place down the street where I got some tom kha gai soup. On the way back to my airBNB, I saw 2 girls walking toward me and then I heard "Jill?" It was the two girls from the Karen homestay! They had just come from Chinola as well. Small world. Literally.
A VERY long day, so back to my airBNB and a shower and bed. Time to explore Chiang Mai tomorrow!
Comments